New Boat!

As you are finding it will be hard to get big radius on those benders as the bend radius is dictated by the  benders. Just take it very carefully with lots of little bends as unless the pipe is the exact size of the formers it will kink and crease.

After a bit of experimenting I marked off the outside radius of the tube in 50mm segments and a 50mm limit on the side of the former. I then moved the tube along one segment at a time and moved the bending arm to the mark on the former. I found that to get the radius to change I needed three marks on the edge of the former.
The tube I'm experimenting with is thin wall alloy and creases very easily on the inside radius. Each "mini bend" has a corresponding crease on the inside.
I'm now looking for some 25mm steel tube to practice with.

Looking at your picture are you using it with the alloy former on top of the pipe as the picture just shows the wheel on top of the pipe ?

The alloy former is fixed to the frame, the tube sits in this and the roller on the bending lever moves over the outside radius of the tube. Does that make sense?

You are a piece missing there should be a former which is usually alloy which has the curve of the pipe which goes on top of the pipe and that roller on the handle part turns down on to the flat top. That's why you are getting creases, also if the bender is 22mm or 28mm etc it will only bend properly those size pipe, you cannot put a 25mm pipe in a 28mm former, well you can but will crease and buckle.

If you look at the below link it shows the curved piece the pipe goes in and the former which goes on top.


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Excellent. I'll source one. Many thanks 

I had a similar problem while making some for my boat, an Elysian 27. I too thought thin wall tube would be best.
I found each time I stopped the bend it left a crease .
By trial and error i found how much overbend was needed for each bend and went for it in one hit per bend . Got good results using tihs method but  can't gaurantee it. I would have thought by now you too would have a scrap lenght or two with which to practise.

New lights fitted today...
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The port ones operate from the original chrome switch below the cocktail cabinet and the s'bd ones from a remote switch. These are the units i fitted...
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The remotes isn't very reliable so the s'bd ones may get a conventional switch in due course.

The holes in the deck-head where the original dome lights were fitted will be covered with a grill of some sort.

Just screw on a plastic blanking plate ? ( Where the lights were)

Maybe something as simple as this...

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Another little job done thanks to the rotten weather...
From this...[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]
To this (x2)...
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The heavy-weight black vinyl backing allows them to double up as protectors for the main cushion...
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That’s a good idea, we always had a door mat on the seat, but that’s a much better idea

Excellent idea, l have a piece of ply to stand on the rear cushion when getting off the stern, but would be better upholstered to serve dual purpose. Another job for the list!
BB has yours got a ply inner ?

F23 flittermouse wrote:Excellent idea, .......BB has yours got a ply inner ?

Thanks. 
No ply in mine. I did think about it but I thought it would wear through the vinyl at the corners so opted to keep it soft.

Foam edging or rubber corner protectors will be abundant on Fleabay

Recovering the 'V' berth side panels is finally done...
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Add a bit of temporary carpet and the interior is starting to look a bit "homely".
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"Emily" has a new mooring position in the Basin so I can now get at and clean some of the parts that were difficult to reach previously...
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I'm going to need some waders to get at the other bits! 

Looks good

Thank you 

WOW is that concrete as close as it looks 

No it's not ......
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........but I've anchored some fenders to the bottom with engineering bricks so that there's no chance of her catching the edge. The water level is much higher than normal at the moment as well.

Wise move

She looks amazing now .I'm going to re paint the interior in spring . Any tips on removing the old paint ?

Lots of.....
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Scrape of all the flaking paint. Buy a palm sander from Wickes plus lots of abrasive pads. When you have finished the sander will be knackered so you can take it back for a no-quibble refund or exchange.
When fully sanded, prime the surface with a multi-surface primer (eg Blackfriar) then two coats of Dulux Weathershield undercoat and finish with two coats of Dulux Weathershield gloss.

Have fun.