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New Boat!

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Post by BotleyBouy Sat Apr 20, 2019 9:32 am

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Would make quite a trip by boat Smile
 Yes, hence the "?"

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Post by Prof Pat Pending Sat Apr 20, 2019 11:22 pm

Do it Twisted Evil

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Post by BotleyBouy Sat May 18, 2019 12:28 am

Having scraped all the muck off the strakes and given them a good scrub they turned out to be in much better condition than I thought. There are four points where replacement wood is necessary, those on the port side shown in the photos and the corresponding points on the S'bd side...

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These repairs should be reasonably straightforward. The timber was very porous and has soaked up many, many coats of Danish oil but is now starting to look quite presentable...
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The penny finally dropped on how best to connect the new fuel filter and it turned out to be quite an easy job in the end...
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I replaced all the 1/4" copper with 8mm apart from a short piece on the fuel pump end on the rubber pipe where I fitted a new piece of 1/4" copper. This made connecting to the existing fitting on the fuel pump a lot simpler. A local hydraulic hose supplier fitted BSC friendly crimped clips to the rubber hose so I'm now compliant again.

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Post by F23 flittermouse Sat May 18, 2019 7:15 am

BB, a traditional boat owner in our boat yard has fitted small stainless steel plates under the fender cleats which extend over the rubbing strake thus protecting the wood in this vunerable area. The wood there always seems to suffer from being wet and wear from the fender ties makes it worse. 
I will get a photo if l remember next time I am down.

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Post by Minerva Sat May 18, 2019 9:33 am

Why the helter skelter fuel pipe BB?

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Post by BotleyBouy Sat May 18, 2019 10:03 am

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Why the helter skelter fuel pipe BB?

Because that was how the original was made so I replaced like for like. I assumed it was to prevent fracturing from vibration.

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Post by Stephen Sat May 18, 2019 10:39 am

So what's the rod/link to the fuel tap? How does that work? An ingenious remote control? Can it turn the handle the required 90°?
Regarding the BSC requirement I presumed the fuel tap should be immediately accessible, manually. I'm probably wrong!

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Post by BotleyBouy Sat May 18, 2019 10:55 am

The linkage is connected to the old throttle lever which is now on the side of the binnacle. It goes through a full 90 degrees meaning the fuel supply can be turned on/off from the steering position. I'll take a photo next week and post it up.
(Nb. the throttle and choke are operated from the Morse).

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Post by BotleyBouy Sat May 18, 2019 11:12 am

Goodbye "It" (aka Barbu II), hello "Emily"...
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The re-naming drinks party last night...
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Emily had a glass of fizz as well  Laughing

"It" is now officially "Her".

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Post by Stephen Sat May 18, 2019 9:42 pm

A White ensign minus the St George's cross defaced with a blue anchor. Has me baffled!

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Post by BotleyBouy Sat May 18, 2019 9:47 pm

It's a yellow ensign  Laughing

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Post by Stephen Sat May 18, 2019 10:01 pm

No amount of Googling has made me any wiser! I'm assuming the design has a special relevance - for you?

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Post by BotleyBouy Sat May 18, 2019 10:42 pm

In Nelson's time an incompetent who managed to be promoted to captain would automatically be promoted to rear-admiral when a slot opened up. To prevent such men from actually commanding the fleet, they were instead promoted to what was known as the Yellow Squadron and were denied active commands in the other three squadrons. This functioned as a sort of forced retirement. So they became an "Admiral of the Beach"  Laughing
As far as I know the yellow ensign never actually existed.

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Post by Minerva Sun May 19, 2019 9:37 am

You are not superstitious then!

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Post by Minerva Sun May 19, 2019 9:41 am

Ps helter skelter...people do this coil thing connecting to engines...a bad idea in my book...should used rubber...but anyway....engines vibrate independent to surrounding hull courtesy of rubber mounts. The fuel tank is strapped to hul and will vibrate in harmony with the hull. No need for helter skelter. If anything this helter skelter is a hazard in that it is more easily knocked. I would personally dispense with it.

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Post by Stephen Sun May 19, 2019 12:00 pm

I still feel the remote controlled shutoff is unacceptable in absolute safety terms since at the critical moment (some emergency onboard - a fire) who is to know if the remote is even still connected for some reason? You need a positive shut off - i.e. with your hand directly. 
I'm even thinking that any stiffness within the tap will translate as a force at the knuckle at the tank. When you do anything by hand directly you tend to instinctively support the control while at the same time twisting it. 
Its why the original hand throttle on most Freemans is so nice to use and progressive as at the same time as your fingers actuate the lever the rest of your hand is caressing the control to give great precision. The combined Morse controls I've experienced on many boats are either in or out of gear - clunk - and the throttle control is comparatively clumsy by pushing forward with only the precision of the whole arm and not the finger tips. Probably I'm not describing it well, but anyone who has used both types will have experienced the difference in refinement, and the others who only have the Morse control wont know what they're missing!

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Post by RichK Sun May 19, 2019 12:39 pm

Might be wrong but i was under the impression the Delfi filters which are designed for diesel we could use on a petrol boat but they had to be all metal and the above picture is a glass bottomed one.
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Post by BotleyBouy Thu May 23, 2019 11:40 pm

After 11 months of ownership and hard graft Emily finally gets her first trip out of the basin in many, many years.
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And everything works!  Laughing  Still more to be done, but then there always will be.

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Post by F23 flittermouse Thu May 23, 2019 11:56 pm

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] wrote:Might be wrong but i was under the impression the Delfi filters which are designed for diesel we could use on a petrol boat but they had to be all metal and the above picture is a glass bottomed one.
Richard, allowed now under correct circumstances, quote from BSS below

Fuel filters can be prone to the heat from a fire and impact damage. Failure of a fuel filter can lead to additional fuel being added to any fire. You must only use appropriate fire resistant and impact resistant fuel filters designed for marine use. Clear bowl, glass or plastic filters meeting these criteria are acceptable, as long as they are designed for use with the fuel-type. Alternatively fuel filters marked with ISO 10088 are also acceptable. [2.16

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Post by Stephen Fri May 24, 2019 9:04 pm

You've just said it! Designed for use with the fuel type. Designed (with clear bowl) for diesel is acceptable for use with diesel. Seems clear?

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Post by RichK Fri May 24, 2019 9:25 pm

Sorry, didn't realise you had a diesel fitted.
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Post by Stephen Fri May 24, 2019 9:41 pm

Sorry if I've confused things. It is a petrol boat and so if its a diesel filter that's been fitted that indeed has the glass bowel that you spotted, then it would seem to be wrong for BSC!

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Post by BotleyBouy Fri May 24, 2019 9:41 pm

I've got a petrol. I bought it from Darwen Diesels who said it was suitable for petrol in marine use.

I seem to recall there was a post from someone here last year recommending this unit; that's why I bought it.

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Post by RichK Fri May 24, 2019 9:46 pm

That's what i thought, also if it has a plastic drain plug it has to be replaced with a metal one. The Delphi does meet ISO 10088 with the glass bowl as a diesel filter. Always thought if used on petrol it had to be all metal construction.
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Post by BotleyBouy Fri May 24, 2019 10:06 pm

Looks like they supplied the plastic drain plug so I'll replace that with a metal one next week.

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