Freeman 33 Sport - Mutual Admiration

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So there I was thinking I had a stern gland leak and all Winter I had a nice dry bilge because so I thought I hadn't had the engines running .....wrong.
Last weekend I cleaned the Boat and filled it full of clean water ready for the new season. This weekend I went back to the Boat and went to turn the isolator for the fwd battery on only to find that the compartment had an enormous amount of water in it almost up to the bottom of the battery.
Putting two and two together I realised that there must be a leak in the water system somewhere so I turned all the taps on drained most of the water and pumped out all the water that had accumulated.
Checked everywhere and eventually found the only place where I could see there was some leakage which was the connection to the water tank - this pipe goes to the pump.
I'm assuming it's coming from there as that is the only place a could find a leak. It looks like that it's leaking from the outlet from the tank not the pipe connected to it so does anyone know how I could repair this?

I don't know whether I should be happy or sad. Happy to know it's not a leaking stern gland (well hope not haven't had the engines on yet) and sad to know I've got a problem with the main water tank and can't fill it until it's sorted.

That would depend on what you from the repair and if you fancy taking the tank out to do it properly. If it were me at this time of year, I'd be thinking bodge it and see how it holds up

The first thing you need to do us ensure that you know where the leak is coming from. Dry everything thouroughly, a heat gun or hair drier would work well. Dust the surfaces with talk, refill the tank and watch where the drips come from.

If it is the joint between the tank and the fitting, taking the tank out and having the joint repaired properly is the ultimate fix, however most DIY stores sell epoxy putty, which was pretty much invented for this type of application. Clean the surfaces thouroughly (small wire brush and isopropanol alcohol) roll the putty into a sausage and work it to mix the ingredients, push the sausage into to joint firmly and give it 24 hours to set

You'll Probably never need to touch it again, but you can make that choice next winter

Found this stuff pretty good....

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I had a similar problem... Ended up removing the water tank as there were mircro cracks in the welds all around it. I believe the welds give up on stainless steel over time (especially when in left sitting in water for a long time) The tank seams had been expoxied (badly) before I bought it.

I found a guy who did a brilliant job. Cleaned all the expoxy off, re-welded the seams, filled it with water and tested (multiple times!). As good as new now. He cut a hole for a level sensor while he was at it...

mleyden wrote:I had a similar problem... Ended up removing the water tank as there were mircro cracks in the welds all around it. I believe the welds give up on stainless steel over time (especially when in left sitting in water for a long time) The tank seams had been expoxied (badly) before I bought it.

They shouldn't, but kind of depends on who is doing the welding and the kit they have to do it with...same goes for the epoxy, done well it will last for years, throw it on there and hope for the best and you're fighting a losing battle

Well thanks for all your input. I'd love to bodge it but getting to this connection is difficult and going by where it is right at the bottom edge it might be difficult to get the epoxy around the output. Me thinks I'll have to take the tank out damn it. 
So I have this output at the bottom an input at the top where it comes in from the side of the boat water inlet and then this big black tube going from the tank to the side of the boat what the hell is that for. 
Is there anyone with a 33sport who's taken this tank out before to share their experience. 
Thanks again

Yes, I have. In mine, the big black hose is the filler and connected to the filler cap in the side deck. There were a couple of wooden battens holding the base down to the floor. Empty tank, remove battens and up it came. Pretty easy job and gave me a chance to get a lick of bilge paint down there.

Ah so the black hose is the filler but there is another smaller pipe at the top of the tank which also goes to the side of the boat is this some kind of overflow?

And do you put any kind of treatment into the tank before you first fill up?
Btw would this kind of problem give you a fail on the BOAT SAFETY CERTIFICATE which is coming up a year from now?

I would assume the smaller is a vent. I don't have one.

I have never put a treatment into the tank, working on the basis that there is enough chemicals in the water already! I just empty and flush with fresh...

We fortunately / unfortunately don't have the BSC in Ireland so we don't have to worry about it.

The biggest problem I had, was that the leaks got worse, quickly... And there is a lot of water in that tank. I would come down to the boat and find the bilges full! So it became unusable, and just had to be taken out. (A pain, but one less thing to have to think about)

Ok you've made my mind up. I'm gonna take it out cus your right my bilges were getting full and there was me thinking it was one of the stern glands leaking.

My 33 has 3 separate bilges. Left, centre and right. My central bilge was filling as the tank is above it. If you are getting water in your left or right bilge, it's not the water tank.

No the centre one is the one filling up at the moment which can be seen easily underneath the fwd battery compartment. The right bilge is still quite dry but was getting water in when the engines are running so maybe I got another problem there too:sunk:

I ended up installing 3 bilge pumps. The central bilge has the raw water inlets and the water tank. The engine bilges have the shaft and the engine water pump, cooling system, as the most likely sources of leaks...

if a few turns of your remote greaser doesnt stop the leaks, try tightening the packing nut on the shaft. I believe you want it tight, but not so tight that it starts to heat up while moving! If neither of those work, you are looking at replacing the packing.

Chlorine based bleach products can accelerate crevice erosion in stainless.

Hi Russ   Mine also started leaking three or four years ago. Took it out and had it welded. Refitted and ok for a few weeks then leaked again from a different part of the base seam to the first leak.  Took it out and had it welded again. Same result, ok for a few weeks then leaked again. Took it out, binned it and had a rectanular one made out of 3mm stainless, put aluminium checker plate on top and gave myself a nice platform to work off when servicing/repairing engines.  Can't remember the exact height but it was about 13 inches and holds 51 gallons. The welded seam on the original tank made a perfect crevice all round the base so I think Deano is right about the erosion.Good luck with yours.

Having had issues with three stainless tanks, all related to welds, I can find no reason not to replace with plastic.

I'd agree entirely except the stainless one I had made for free.

thomas winner wrote:I'd agree entirely except the stainless one I had made for free.

In which case you have a perfectly good reason!!!  :D:D

Well I'll take mine out and get it welded. If it happens again then I'll take it out, bin it and replace it with a bottled water cabinet. 

Well I'll take mine out and get it welded. If it happens again then I'll take it out, bin it and replace it with a bottled water cabinet. 

Twice!

Never did post what happened. Took the tank out which was a bit of a job and bloody heavy to lift. Filled it up outside and found the leek about halfway up. A guy at our club who had welding kit did the job for me and got it back in about end of May last year. Since then it's been water tight. 

Glad you got it sorted...so easily